Water Well and Water Treatment System: An Overview

A well is an opening or "hole" driven into the ground to get close enough to an underground aquifer. Water is removed from the ground utilizing a pipeline and a pump. The pump utilizes a screen to filter undesired particles that could obstruct the line.

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Besides, most aquifers comprise sand, sandstone, fractured rock, and gravel. Water travels through the enormous spaces between these materials and ultimately tracks down its direction to the surface, winding up in springs, streams, lakes, oceans, and seas.

Now, the question is, have you at any point pondered where well water comes from? How truly does well water function? In the event that you're going to move into a home with well water and need to figure out more about it, you're just in luck to have come across this article.

To initially begin, wells are holes penetrated into the ground to get to groundwater contained in aquifers. A line and pump pull the water out, while a filter system eliminates undesirable particulate and decontaminates the water.

As such, the well's profundity or depth relies upon the aquifer's deepness. Assuming you look underneath the outer layer of the scene, you will find a complicated combination of rock, gravel, sand, or better-grained material that makes up regions where water can be put away in pore spaces.

Ultimately, gravity makes water or melted snow drop down into the vacant in the middle of between the dirt or breaks in the stone. In the end, the water arrives at the soaked or saturated zone.

In the saturated zone, every one of the void spaces is totally loaded up with water; the water in the soaked zone is what we call groundwater. The geologic formations of rock or potentially soil that send and store groundwater are called aquifers.

1.1 Brief History of Well Water

The most established wells in the world were found in Cyprus and date back a long time. In recent events, dating to 600 BC, wells were found in China. It is straightforward that these simple wells seem to be those we use now.

However, they gave solid wellsprings of consumable water to rural and developing areas. Until the mid-nineteenth or 19th century, water wells were dug manually or by hand.

In , the Ruffner Brothers created the primary mechanical well drill and effectively utilized it to get to the water at Great Buffalo Lick, West Virginia.

This development spread all through America yet was before long outmatched by the rotary drilling machines that went onto the scene years and years after the fact.

These machines permit individuals to bore quicker, yet they were additionally keeping up with the water uncontaminated as it came up through steel pipes. With the progression of innovation and refreshed drilling strategies, water wells have made it feasible for some networks to get to a wellspring of clean water.

Regardless of the tremendous number of organizations and supplies of civil water, water wells are as yet broad in suburban and rural areas.

1.2 The Origins (or Sources) of a Well System

As referenced, all well water comes from underground aquifers, underground layers of water-bearing porous or permeable rocks. Water enters aquifers as precipitation leaks through the dirt and reemerges through natural springs and wells. A portion of the water in springs winds up, shaping streams and lakes or advances toward our oceans and seas.

1.3 The Depth of Water Well

The depth of a well relies upon the profundity of the aquifer. When in doubt, your well ought to be somewhere around a hundred feet down, assuming you maintain that the water that arrives at your faucet should be adequately clean to drink.

Remember that a hundred feet ought to be the base depth. The further the well, the cleaner and better your water will be. More profound water is commonly plentiful in minerals and has fewer possibilities of contamination.

You ought to utilize a water filtration system before cooking or drinking it to eliminate any expected pollutants and debasements.

1.4 The Different Types of Water Well Systems

You might have three (3) types of well water systems on your property. Whether the water is safe to drink without filtering relies upon the sort of well you have.

Dug/Bored Wells

These shallow wells are dived into the ground with a digging tool - roughly ten (10) to thirty (30) feet down. To forestall breakdown, they are cased with brick, tiles, stones, or other heavy materials.

Notwithstanding, it tends to be contaminated because the water is drawn from an aquifer extremely near the surface. To involve water from a dug or bored well for cooking or drinking, you ought to one or the other boil or sanitize it with a water purifying system before consumption.

Driven Wells

These wells are more profound than dug/bored wells however are as yet not deep enough to give clean drinking water. At the very least, they have a depth of roughly thirty (30)to fifty (50) feet and are developed by driving a line into the ground. Water from these wells should be refined prior to drinking it.

Drilled Wells

The most profound kind of private wells, drilled wells, are made with percussion or rotary drilling machines. They can arrive at depths of thousands of feet and require proficient packaging installation.

Regardless of whether they are the most costly to make, water from these wells is already generally perfect for drinking without cleaning it. Since the water goes through various soil layers to the aquifer, it is likewise enhanced with solid minerals and micronutrients.

IMPORTANT NOTE: Water from penetrated wells should be tried before utilization to check its tainting level and whether it needs sanitization.

1.5 The Parts of a Well

A well comprises a few distinct parts. However, the most important materials are as follows:

Casing

It used to keep open access in the ground while keeping any interruption or spillage from the encompassing developments into the well. Black steel stirred or galvanized steel, PVC pipe, and concrete pipe are the most widely recognized packaging materials.

Gravel Pack

It keeps sand from entering the well or clogging up the screen and supports well assembly. The gravel pack circumvents the outside of the screen.

Grout

It is a sealant that makes up for shortcomings around the well's border. It keeps pollution from getting into the well. Concrete, bentonite, or cement can be utilized to make a grout mixture.

Screen

It keeps sand and gravel out of the borehole while giving groundwater and water from development access. Screens comprise different materials, the most well-known of which are stainless steel and opened PVC pipe. While boring wells in unconsolidated materials, a screen is used.

The Process of Well System

Well, water is still consistent with the original idea in that well water comes straightforwardly from the beginning. To make a well, an opening or hole is dug in the ground, at times similar to a thousand feet underneath the surface.

Moreover, the well water's hole is held open by a line that arrives the entire way to the spring or aquifer, the source of the water.

Likewise, experts introduce a pump to convey the well water from the beginning of the pipes. Then, at that point, this siphon, fueled by an engine, pulls the well water from the spring and conveys it through the pipe's system, at last arriving at the home.

When the well water arrives at the house, it lives in the pressure tank, which then goes to your shower, kitchen faucet, and another faucet.

The process of a good system, from getting water from the well to your glass, is very basic. With the utilization of current pipes, a house with well water is getting water directly from the source, bringing about new water that has not experienced any broad sifting from the city.

Nonetheless, well water possibly has benefits in the event that it is observed and treated appropriately.

Watch this video to learn more.

1.1 Other Components of Well System

What makes present-day wells so advantageous is the innovative hardware that screens every one of the cycles. Here are a few different parts that you could have to be aware of.

Pressure tank

A fundamental tank stores the water siphoned from underground that you use over the course of the day. It's fitted with a pressure sensor that keeps up with ideal water tension in fixtures in your home.

These sensors additionally monitor the water level and actuate the siphon at whatever point the water level gets lower in the strain tank.

A water softener or water conditioner

Pressure tanks are frequently associated with water softeners since underground springs have high mineral fixations, mostly excessive magnesium, and calcium. The presence of these minerals brings about hard water

You can manage without a water softener; however, to work on your water's taste, safeguard your lines and machines, and keep your garments and hair delicate, you ought to think about a water softener in the event that you have hard water.

Filter and treatment plant

Once in a while, well water gets polluted with hydrogen sulfide gas or sulfur bacteria and scents like spoiled eggs. Water filters and treatment plants treat such contaminations. Individuals frequently utilize reverse osmosis plants, perforated, ion exchange, and activated charcoal filters.

Normally, water removed from underground isn't alright for drinking water and requires such channels.

1.2 Risks of Well Water Systems

Contamination

Contamination is the main concern with regard to private well consumption. It's rare. However, there is a risk of bacteria present in the water. You can keep away from it by introducing a water filtration plant for drinking water or getting your sample tried.

Probably the most well-known impurities found in groundwater are microorganisms, infections, and parasites. The following are a couple of the most well-known:

E. coli

E. coli is a coliform bacteria that influence the stomach-related or digestive system and causes diarrhea to the bowels, sickness, and fever. It's not lethal, yet it can cause outrageous misery on the off chance that not treated as expected. Such a microorganism proposes the spillage of sewage or feces into the water streams.

E. coli is most normal in wells with a shallower depth. Comparative natural toxins incorporate giardia, cryptosporidium, rotavirus, and hepatitis A.

Arsenic

Arsenic is a regular poisonous component and the primary constituent of rock and soil underground. It's likewise present in industrial waste, which dirties natural resources.

Sulfur

Sulfur bacteria isn't extremely hurtful, yet it radiates a rotten egg smell that is very obnoxious. Appropriate upkeep and stun chlorination can keep these microorganisms from developing.

Nitrate

Nitrate is very perilous, particularly to babies. Concentrates on a show that nitrate-contaminated water can cause cyanosis (methemoglobinemia), a blood issue that could be lethal. In this way, in the event that you have children in your home, don't allow them to hydrate until it's appropriately tried and goes through the filtration plant.

Hard Water Supply

Not at all like city water that is pretreated when it arrives at your home, well water might contain extreme calcium and magnesium that make water hard. Hard water disturbs the skin, blurs garments, and can cause blockage of lines due to sediment buildup.

While drinking hard water isn't perilous and, in certain areas, gives minerals to occupants who, in any case, wouldn't get it, it's not generally charming to drink due to a perceivable metallic taste.

Many homes in the rustic region of the US use particle trade water conditioners to treat hard water.

Pros and Cons of Well Water

Pros of using well water:

High nutrients and minerals.

Well, water is regularly higher in supplements and minerals. Contrasted with city water, well water is fresher since it comes straightforwardly from the spring without going through a filtration cycle.

Before city water gets to your home, the water goes through a filtration interaction to kill parasites, microscopic organisms, infections, and microorganisms by utilizing chlorine and chloramine.

Well water is liberated from added substances or additives while keeping up with the healthy nutrients and minerals that are great for you.

No water charge.

You will not need to cover a water bill every month. Since the water coming into the house is exclusive, you won't be writing a monthly check to the city for water.

In any case, some upkeep and support are still associated with claiming a home with well water. However, it's anything but a month-to-month bill.

Assurance from contamination after natural disasters.

Well water is normally shielded from cataclysmic events that could bring about defilement. Cataclysmic events, particularly floods, can bring water pollution.

Grounds and foundations are moved, bringing about an unfortunate increment of impurities to the water. If a city is overwhelmed too vigorously, a bubble request will be given, and property holders shouldn't utilize their homes' water.

Fortunately, well water supplies are normally safe from cataclysmic events.

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Cons of using well water:

Requires electricity to operate.

Well water is subject to power. Since well water is commonly pulled starting from the earliest stage of a pump, that siphon needs power from someplace. In this manner, the pump runs on power.

Thus, assuming that the power in your home goes out, the siphon will quit working, and that implies no water. In the event that you live in a house with well water, keeping one more method for power close by, similar to a generator or sunlight-based power, is savvy.

The Best Well Water Filtration System

There are many kinds of well water filtration systems. Which type you pick depends upon the state of your water and what impurities you really want to be eliminated. That is why testing your water is fundamental before putting resources into a system.

These are the most widely recognized kinds of water filtration:

Sediment filters: These contain a plastic cartridge with fine pores.

Carbon charcoal filters: These sift water through layers of carbon, which retains numerous substance toxins.

Reverse osmosis filters: Water is constrained through a semi-porous film, eliminating most impurities.

Ultraviolet light filters: These immediate UV beams through approaching water, killing most microorganisms and microscopic organisms.

Water distillers: These frameworks bubble water, making steam that re-gathers into fluid, eliminating virtually all synthetic compounds and minerals.

You can also invest in Berkey Water Filters as one of your home's best well filtration systems. With Berkey Water Filters, you can rest assured that your water is safe to drink because it is a pack leader in water filtration that uses gravity to feed water through a gamut of "Black Berkey Elements."

Black Berkey® Elements dramatically reduce trihalomethanes, inorganic minerals, heavy metals, pharmaceuticals, pesticides, VOCs, petroleum products, perfluorinated chemicals, rust, silt, sediment, radiologicals, and more.

Black Berkey® Elements have been tested by accredited third-party labs that have reported that the elements meet ANSI/NSF (Std. 53) protocol, and address over 200+ typical contaminants found in drinking water sources.

If you wish to know more, give us a contact at  (888) 899- and visit our website, theberkey.com, for more information.

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Section 7

Well Casing and Screen

To keep loose sand and gravel from collapsing into the borehole, it is necessary to use well casing and screen. The screen supports the borehole walls while allowing water to enter the well; unslotted casing is placed above the screen to keep the rest of the borehole open and serve as a housing for pumping equipment. Since the well screen is the most important single factor affecting the efficiency of a well, it is sometimes called the "heart of the well"!

7.1 Screen Design
7.2 Screening Wells Drilled Into Rock
7.3 Screen Centralizers
7.4 Casing and Screen Installation
7.5 Solvent Welding (Gluing PVC)
7.6 Footnotes & references

7.1 Screen Design

Well screens should have as large a percentage of non-clogging slots as possible, be resistant to corrosion, have sufficient strength to resist collapse, be easily developed and prevent sand pumping (Driscoll, ). These characteristics are best met in commercial continuous-slot (wire wrap) screens consisting of a triangular-shaped wire wrapped around an array of rods (see Footnote #1). If these screens are available, conduct a sieve analysis on samples on the water-bearing formation and select a slot size which will retain 40-60 percent of the material.

While wire wrap screen should be used whenever possible, it may be exorbitantly expensive and/or not available. Most Lifewater wells are constructed using PVC casing and screen (Footnote #2) - see (Figure 9). Grey PVC pipe, which is available in most countries, is relatively cheap, corrosion resistant, lightweight, easy to work with and chemically inert.

Slot Design: Using a hack saw, cut slots in the plastic casing which are as long and close together as possible. Slots should be spaced as close together as possible vertically and should extend about 1/5th the circumference of the pipe; there should be 3 even rows of slots extending up the pipe separated by 3 narrower rows of solid, uncut pipe (for strength).

Figure 9: PVC Cut-Slotted Screen

Screen/Casing Diameter: Three inch diameter casing and screen can be easy inserted into the 15 cm (6 in) LS-100 borehole and allows creation of an effective 3 cm (1.25 in) thick filter pack (this is especially important where the aquifer is composed of very fine materials). However, since 7.6 cm (3 in) screen is often not available and has low total open area, carefully centered and filter packed 10 cm (4 in) screen is most frequently used. Larger diameter screens make the filter pack ineffective and do NOT significantly increase well yield. For example, moving from a 10 - 12.7 cm (4 - 5 in) screen will increase yield by 3 percent or less! Besides, a good filter pack expands the effective radius of the well to the full 15 cm (6 in) diameter of the borehole.

Screen Length: For confined aquifers, 80-90 percent of the thickness of the water-bearing zone should be screened (Driscoll, ). Best results are obtained by centring the screen section in the aquifer. For unconfined aquifers, maximum specific capacity is obtained by using the longest screen possible but more available drawdown results from using the shortest screen possible! These factors are optimized by screening the bottom 30-50 percent of the aquifer (Driscoll, ). One 7m (20ft) length of screen is often adequate. Screening 6-7 meters beneath the water table generally assures adequate year-round yield (Brush, 198?). In many tropical areas, successful wells can be constructed by drilling 5 feet into underlying rock and placing a 10 foot screen which straddles the bedrock/overburden interface (see Appendix C-4)

Bottom Casing: Significant quantities of fine materials are often present in the extreme upper and lower parts of an aquifer. Therefore, unless the aquifer is less than 7 m thick, extend the casing at least 1-2 m into the top of the aquifer before starting the screen. Similarly, unless the aquifer is very thin, ensure that at least the bottom 1-2 meters of the aquifer is completed with a piece of solid casing pipe. This casing (known as a "sump" or "rat hole") provides a place for solids to settle as they are drawn into the well, thus minimizing screen blockage and minimizing the amount of fines drawn into the well (see Figure 9 and Section 9 - Figure 15).

Bottom Plug: A plug ("drive shoe") should always be installed to help the casing slip down the borehole and prevent unfiltered fines from entering the well. A cap or pointed wooden plug are the most common plugs. If "belled" casing (with a built-in socket on one end) is used, the non-belled end can be shaped into a point. Finally, a wash-down valve can be used or a one-way valve (allowing water to flow out of the casing) can be installed in a wooden plug which has a beveled inner surface (Figure 10). This valve allows the well to be effectively rinsed-out and ensures that the filter pack is effectively placed.

If any type of wooden plug is used, it is good practice to place a cement plug at the bottom of the well to ensure that sediment can not enter the well when the plug rots out. Put thick cement in thin plastic bags, drop them to the bottom of the well and then smash them open using drill pipe.

Figure 10: Wash-down Bottom Plugs

7.2 Screening Wells Drilled Into Rock

No casing or screen is generally required in the portion of boreholes drilled into rock. The first 2 - 3 m of the rock borehole should be 15 cm (6 in) in diameter; the borehole can then be extended using a 10 cm (4 in) bit (this maximizes the drilling speed which can be very slow in rock). The 11.4 cm (4.5 in) OD casing should be placed into the 15 cm (6 in) hole and carefully aligned with the (10 cm (4 in) hole. Fill the rock annular space with 40 cm coarse gravel followed by 60 cm coarse sand/fine gravel with 100 cm medium sand on top (this prevents fine sands and silts often found at the overburden-bedrock contact from moving into the well). Since the main water-bearing zone may be within the upper few inches of bedrock, only seal the casing into rock with cement where contamination is major concern.

7.3 Centralizers: Whenever possible, centralizers should be used on the outside of the rising main ("drop pipe") and on the pump rods. Adding centralizers minimizes the chance of pump rods banging against the rising main during operation of the handpump. This can be a serious problem in wells over 12.19 m (40 ft) deep since it eventually leads to early wearing-out of the rods and/or holes being rubbed in the rising main... leading to pump failure! Centralizers are also very important when installing casing since slots in the well screen may become severely blocked with clay if the screen rubs hard against the borehole wall while it is being inserted into the borehole. Centralizers also ensure that there is even distribution of cement grout and filter pack. This is really important since if the screen is placed against the borehole wall, the well may always produce turbid water! Poor grout placement can result in contaminated surface water entering the well and making the water unsafe to drink!

These problems can be avoided by attaching (gluing, screwing, tying-on with wire) 3 centralizer strips to the top and bottom ends of the screen. Centralizers can be made from PVC casing, flexible green wood or 1.2 cm (0.5 in) wide iron straps (see Figure 11). Only fasten the lower end of each centralizer (so that it can "flex") and do not put any on the casing or the screen/casing may jamb during placement. Centralizers work best with 7.6 cm (3 in) casing; jamming may occur when installing 10 cm (4 in) casing in the 15 cm (6 in) borehole (the outside diameter of schedule 40 PVC pipe is 11.4 cm (4.5 in) and the diameter of couplings is 13.2 cm (5.2 in)! If this is a concern, just make the bottom plug the same diameter as the couplings.

Figure 11: Casing Centralizers

7.4 Casing and Screen Installation

Make sure you know the distance from the ground level to the bottom of the borehole and ensure that the required lengths of well casing and screen are prepared, clean, close at hand and ready to install when the drilling is completed. Attach the casing sump with the drive shoe to the bottom of well screen. For more information on solvent welding, see section 7.5. If bell and spigot pipe is not used, pre-glue a joining coupler (collar) to one end of each length of casing (see Figure 12).

Figure 12: Preparing Pipe for Installation

Once the borehole is completed to the desired depth, continue to circulate drilling fluid through the drill pipe at the bottom of the borehole until the returning fluids are clear of cuttings, sand, and clay balls. The fluid in the mud pits may need to be replaced several times before the water exiting the borehole is clean. When it is, keep the fluid circulating and the bit rotating and slowly remove the drill pipe from the borehole.

When the drill pipe is removed, swing the engine/drive assembly to the side. Prepare to clamp the casing using 2 grip clamps formed from iron or wood: 1 clamp should be on the casing suspended in the hole and the other on the length of casing to be joined (Figure 13). Alternatively, use a casing slip clamp made from 1/2 or 3/8 inch steel plate by cutting a slot slightly larger than the casing and welding on a handle (Figure 13).

Figure 13: Casing Clamps

Keeping the borehole full of water, carefully lower the screen assembly into the borehole. Ensure that a grip clamp is attached or use a slip clamp to catch the casing should it slip while being lowered. One at a time, wipe clean, add and glue 6 metre (full 20 foot) lengths of casing (see Section 7.5). If a slip clamp is used, wrap a 1 cm thick hemp rope 3-4 times around the upper length of casing (Figure 14) and keep it tight when pulling the clamp back to ensure that the casing can not slip. After the slip clamp is back in place, lessen the tension on the rope and allow the casing to slowly slip into the well until it is again resting on the clamp. Continue to add and lower casing until the well screen reaches the bottom of the borehole. Then raise it slightly and suspend it using grip clamps or by tying a rope to the drill table (this ensures that the casing is placed straight). Work quickly to minimize the chance that the borehole may start to collapse.

Figure 14: Rope Wrap Around Casing During Installation

Keep track of the length of screen and casing that is installed to ensure that the well has not partially caved-in (see Appendix G-2) and to ensure that the casing reaches the bottom of the borehole and is not stuck part way down the borehole (see Appendix G-10. Keeping the casing suspended 10 cm above the borehole bottom, cut the top off the casing so that only about 50 cm sticks-up above ground level (see Section 9 - Figure 15 and Section 14 - Figure 17).

After the casing is securely suspended, thoroughly flush the borehole again with clean water (this greatly reduces well development time (Section 10). If a one-way valve was installed at the bottom of the casing, run drill pipe down inside the casing until it is engaged in the top of the valve. If there is no valve, place a tight fitting surge block or securely wrapped rag on the end of the drill pipe. Then set the end of the drill pipe down to the bottom of the screen and pump clean water down the drill pipe so that it is forced out through the bottom section of screen. If these flushing processes are not possible, rinse-out the casing by connecting the mud pump outlet hose to the top of the casing by means of a well cap and appropriate fittings.

Finally, bail or pump out the casing. If it can be bailed practically dry, develop the full length of the screen several times (Section 10). Continue until no further improvement in yield is noticed. If there is not enough water (Section 10.3), remove the casing and abandon the well.

7.5 Solvent Welding

Solvent weld the pipe segments using the following procedure (NWWA, ):

1. Clean the contact surfaces of the pipe end with a clean, dry cotton cloth or paper towel.
2. Roughening contact surfaces with abrasive paper ("sandpaper") helps develop a better bond. Sand the pipe by holding the paper around the pipe and turning the pipe around and around. This is better than sanding up and down lengthwise along the pipe;
3. Check the fit of the sections to be cemented. A good "dry fit" should show the spigot end entering the socket to about one-half to two-thirds of its depth. Incorrectly dimensioned pipe or sockets should not be used!
4. Apply primer to the outside of the casing end and to the inside surfaces of the socket to prepare them for joining (the primer may require more time to soften the belled end casing sockets than is necessary to prepare the sockets of separate moulded couplings);
5. Apply a thin, uniform coat of solvent cement to the interior surface of the socket and to the exterior spigot end of the casing (too much solvent could weaken the casing);
6. Insert the spigot end of the casing section forcefully into the socket to the entire depth of the socket while both the inside socket surface and outside surface of the casing are completely coated with wet cement. Give the casing a half turn when pushing together;
7. Hold the socket and casing sections together for at least 15 to 20 seconds or until an initial set takes place. Then wipe the excess cement from the socket. A properly cemented joint should show a bead of solvent cement around the entire circumference of the casing/socket joint;
8. To insure a strong bond, a joint should be allowed to set for at least 5 minutes. If less time is desired, drive three or four 95 mm (3/8 in) self-taping screws through each joint to ensure that the pipe can not separate during installation. Fully penetrating screws should not be used because their corrosion over time may leave a hole in the casing through which contaminants or bacteria may enter the well (Driscoll, ).

1 They are strong, allow maximum flow rates and the small slot size screens-out fines. In addition, the screen is unlikely to plug-up over time since sand grains cannot plug slots which are V-shaped and widen inward and sand particles can only make contact at two points (Driscoll, ). Finally, the closely pitched, continuous slot facilitates uniform well development (Schreurs, 198?).

2 The disadvantages of using a locally manufactured screen when compared with commercial continuous wrap wire screens are:

• since strength cannot be maintained if openings are closely spaced, the percentage of open area is lower (4-12% open area compared to 30-50% for wire wrap screens) thus restricting the entry of water into the well;
• the size of the slots varies significantly and slots cannot be made small enough to screen out fine sand;
• the screen tends to clog during the development process if the aquifer is composed of fine sand. Sand grains can lodge solidly in a round or square opening and greatly limit the effectiveness of the screen (Schreurs, 198?); and
• The blank areas between slots prevents all portions of the aquifer around the screen to be effectively developed.

Brush, R. (197?) "Wells Construction: Hand Dug and Hand Drilled", US Peace Corps, Washington DC.

Driscoll, F. () Groundwater and Wells, St. Paul: Johnson Division

National Water Well Association and Plastics Pipe Institute () Manual on the Selection and Installation of Thermoplastic Water Well Casing, Worthington, OH, 64pp.

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