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Youve bought a Fuji s5, congratulations!! Quickly, youve realised that this a LOT of camera and there are things done differently than other cameras youve used. Well, end your frustration and puzzlement here - post your questions here! Originally posted at 4:59PM, 19 September PDT Itinerant edited this topic ages ago.

Itinerant says:

(My ulterior motive is deflect the random newbie questions from other threads.. :)
ages ago

*Focus says:

I just got my Fuji S5 Pro, I hope it's great camera. I've been shooting with D200 and Canon 30D for a while. I'm hoping that I spend less time on processing. Wish me luck... :)
ages ago

jmark media llc says:

I shoot in raw. Is there anyway to have the captured EXIF data transfer and be visible on flickr?
ages ago

gdargaud says:

Not that I know of. I usually go RAF -> TIF -> JPG and loose the exif in the process. Utilities like exif or jhead can copy the exif block from one jpeg file to another, but after looking at the specs and even writing to the developers, I can't figure out a solution. I think the long term solution will come from the full supprt of exif in TIF files, followed, obviously, by its support in graphic programs.

Short of that I've been thinking about some dirty hacks like doing a binary extraction of the exif block off the RAF followed by its insertion into an arbitrary JPG, but I haven't had the time to do it. Not that if you shoot RAW+JPG, you could use a script to transfer the exif from the original JPG to the one obtained through the RAF.
ages ago

alforque says:

Which EXIF data are you looking for? I use Lightroom to go from RAF -> JPG (example). The EXIF data transfers. A few of the items are lost in the transition.
ages ago

Nikographer [Jon] says:

My old trick here would be, shoot jpg+raw. Convert the raw to desired results and save as jpg. Then open the orig. jpg you shot, add the converted raw version as a new layer covering the bottom orig-jpg layer, and save as a new jpg. Should contain the lower orig-jpg image's exif, at least when using cs2 or similar.
ages ago

Zovni says:

Hi!

I use S5 PRO with Tokina 12-24 f4 lens and it seems like I have a trouble with exposure metering when using "A" and "S" modes.

When I use "A" mode (my prefferable mode I almost always use) in the evening it doesn't know what shutter speed should be used and says "Lo", apperture=4. Then I tested it with Nikkor 50mm lens with the same settings (apperture=4) and it gives right shutter speed.

The same problem appears in the mode "S", but it cannot obtain the correct apperture, it just says "Lo", at the same time with Nikkor 50mm lens it obtains the correct apperture.

This problem doesn't appear when I use the mode "P".

But I usually use "S" or "A" modes and mode "P" is commonly not acceptable for my purposes.

Please, help me to resolve this problem. I think it's not a lens problem, maybe smth with the camera settings?
ages ago

Itinerant says:

Nah, lens. Have the lens checked out, it might be problems with the CPU in the lens.
ages ago

concerned mine [deleted] says:

I have the same lens, and the same camera, with no similar problems.
ages ago

Alan P Green says:

This might be a dumb question, but when you read reviews for the S5 they all bang on about how good the Dynamic Range of the S5 is, and that Dynamic Range is a good thing... so my question is this.. in the camera you can set it to Auto, of various percentage levels, all the way up to 400%

So if DR is such a good thing to have, why not just have it set to 400% permanently?
ages ago

concerned mine [deleted] says:

I find this interesting too. At the risk of being entirely wrong, I gather from page 112 of the manual: that a scene shot in contrasty light at 400% DR tries to maximise the highlight and shadow capturing ability of the sensor, and tends to retain highlight detail, but if the light is flat, then the tonal range rendered will be a little dull, whereas if you are using a nominal 100% DR, and the shadow to highlight range in the scene is within the capabilities of the camera, it will render the tonal range differently, to maximise the "punchiness" of the image rendered by the camera.

At 100%, even RAW shots have only 100% dynamic range. I don't know how the other incremental DR increases affect RAW files.
ages ago

striped tomatoes [deleted] says:

AlbinAlan I have thought exactly the same thing. fo2me well done for trying to explain this. Be good if the folks at Fuji could answer this question.
ages ago

Pug person says:

I always just shoot 400%
ages ago

striped tomatoes [deleted] says:

Mr Moley can you elaborate? like why this works for you?
ages ago

Pug person says:

I just do it to be on the safe side I guess, no real reason, I usually shoot raw so I figure if the photo is less contrasty it's usually easier to fix then if it has too much contrast. Although if I shot jpeg I might reconsider.
ages ago

scattered group [deleted] says:

ok people apologies in advance for this question given this group. But I'm a relative newbie to photography having only picked up a camera for more than just snapshots since Sept .

I've been using the Nikon D40x which I like lot but feel I need to upgrade. So the questions are:
(a) is the Fuji S5 Pro a good option;and
(b) does £600 (US $) for body only represent good value?

Thanks
Originally posted ages ago.
scattered group edited this topic ages ago.

Itinerant says:

What are your reasons for considering an s5?
ages ago

scattered group [deleted] says:

hi. Well I do a lot of candid and people shots and I understand that the S5 is good with skin tones etc. I also find the d40x limiting in certain aspects including bracketing, certain lenses etc. The s5 is therefore one option
ages ago

Itinerant says:

Its definitely a good option for you, particularly at the price.
ages ago

E.R.Smith says:

If you shoot raw then you defeat the Fuji post processing of the image. I like Fuji color, so I take advantage of that by shooting jpeg. ....
ages ago

scattered group [deleted] says:

Thanks Itinerant and capmom - I've ordered it now.

I don't do RAW as I am not partiuclarly au fait with Photoshop etc. At the £600 price I thought it was a better option than the Nikon D80 or the Canon 40D (not that I would go for the Canon, given that my three lenses are Nikons).

Hope to post a few pics in due course as well as further questions no doubt
ages ago

concerned mine [deleted] says:

I think if you are not interested in Raw, you have made a good choice with the Fuji, it makes nice jpegs.
If you are a Raw kind of person, you can make those jpegs yourself after a little work, and with more control.
I haven't invested any braincells in Raw yet, so I bought the S5 as an upgrade from my S3, and I like it a lot. Enjoy it when you get it.
ages ago

E.R.Smith says:

Raw isn't necessarily the do all and be all everyone thinks it is. Basically it captures an image that is as flat as the camera can provide. This allows a greater latitude in exposure. The Fuji with it's extended tonal range provides just that.
ages ago

striped tomatoes [deleted] says:

Pebblebytheriver £600 is a great price
Enjoy your camera and take lots of pictures. Carry your manual with you and read and read it. I have pasted card to the inside front and back cover of mine to make it more lasting.

Have fun
Originally posted ages ago.
striped tomatoes edited this topic ages ago.

scattered group [deleted] says:

Thanks fo2me, capmom and JJ. I can't wait to get hold of it. I'll certainly keep the manual beside me for the first few months!
ages ago

striped tomatoes [deleted] says:

For those of you who post to flickr a lot and don't use photoshop I suggest you try using piknik the editing software in the flickr toolbar. It is very very powerful, ( although sluggish) but really worth experimenting with for your flickr posting
ages ago

Gandhi Prabowo says:

I have trouble when tethrede a RAW file withStudio Utility from HS-V3 to my Mac OS X G4 ver 10.4.9 processor 1.33 GHz and 1.25 GB DDR SDRAM. But when tethrede with JPEG file its fine.
ages ago

Shenanigan Kid says:

I've been reading about the firmware update in one of the other S5 topics. Sorry, But could somebody kinda clue me in on what the heck it is? I checked my firmware and it says I have 1.04.
ages ago

Rubistyle ~Amy~ says:

I also have 1.04. Is it ok to skip firmware updates and go straight to 1.09? I am nervous to update in case it goes wrong!
ages ago

Valutin says:

Go ahead, the 1.09 includes all the other previous update.

Shenangian, go on the fujifilm website, look for S5 Pro firmware, download the file and put it on a camera formatted card, then turn on the camera with back button pushed. It will ask you if you want to update the firmware or not. Make sure you have some fresh batteries.
ages ago

Rubistyle ~Amy~ says:

Another stupid newbie question, but this is the place for them :-) What is the 'back' button?
ages ago

MonkeyRPN says:

Which is recommended? "fine" or "normal" setting for Jpeg quality? Thanks.
ages ago

Erica R. says:

Is there a way to push the AE lock button to lock exposure, then step back, try to refocus by pushing the shutter button half way down and then taking the shot? I'm trying to lock exposure on my subject then recompose and refocus, but it's not letting me refocus.
ages ago

breakable dog [deleted] says:

Monkeyrpn, normal jpegs 3.5 megs, fine 6.5 megs. I see little difference in general quality. it's like saving a file a level 10 jpeg compression instead of 12. same pixel dimensions. How many images do you have to fit on a card?
BTW, you guys all running 1.o9? I still have my stock 1.04.
ages ago

concerned mine [deleted] says:

That's certainly one of the shooting menu setup options. I use it, and the problem is the exposure remains locked in with the AE button until you realise your last few dozen shots were metered for the sky, or the ground, or someone's face, and press again to release it.
ages ago

Erica R. says:

So are you saying that the exposure will remain locked in on my subject (the one I metered for) while I'm shooting away in different positions, etc, until I press it again? So I can meter, press AE lock, then recompose, refocus by pushing the shutter half way down and then fire away all while having the same exposure because I pushed AE lock to begin with? It will stay that way until I push it again? I'll have to play...:)
ages ago

laughable doctor [deleted] says:

geez, i never understood it that way, the whole exposure lock thing.. so there is various options on the ae lock, you can have it lock for aslong as you keep pressing it, or lock it untill you press it again, or some sort of timerfunction i don't understand. as long as the ae is locked (which is indicated in your vf ) you can refocus, reframe and if will give you the exposure you locked for.
ages ago

Shenanigan Kid says:

I'm still on 1.04.
ages ago

Moda Mont says:

I read a review that stated if you have a Fuji Pro S3 just keep it because the quality of the images produced by the Fuji Pro S5 are not an improvement over the S3. Any comments from those who have owned both models ? ? thanks !
ages ago

concerned mine [deleted] says:

Well, I think that's true and false. The jpegs from the S5 are cleaner (less noise, better in-camera processing) than the S3, and you get , instead of iso . White balance is different too, and the skin tones are better in the S5, the S3 can be a bit odd with flash, I found.
If you are a raw shooter, the improvements might not be as clear cut.


It's hard to define image quality, comparing good quality with good quality. Comparing good with poor quality is easier.

You will read that you can get Fuji style colours from the raw files from a Canon or Nikon too. But you can get them from the Fuji easier, and some people like them.

I haven't used my S3 since I got the S5.
ages ago

concerned mine [deleted] says:

You understand the AE thing better than I do, and you explained it better.
Even if you are using a zoom, and the effective aperture changes as you reframe, with the AE lock indicator in your viewfinder the shutter speed will change to give the exposure you locked for.
ages ago

Moda Mont says:

fo2me, thank you for your reply and comments !
ages ago

concerned mine [deleted] says:

Another thing the S5 has that the S3 has not is the built-in Nikon AWS/CLS Flash control. That's worth a lot.
You can't even set the S3 flash to manual, to optically fire a remote slave flash, there are always preflashes that set off the slave flash, you have to hotshoe mount another flash to use as a controller.
ages ago

dillusional_confusion says:

Hi there everyone.

I've just got myself a Fuji S5 pro (hurrah) and have a couple of newbie questions. I guess the main one is that I'm wondering about people's tips on workflow. I currently use a mac, with Lightroom and usually shoot raw on my Canon 40D and Olympus e410 (that's not to say that I'm adverse to using jpg, if someone can guide me towards a good workflow to use).

I'm going to install the standard fuji software and have a play, but any thoughts from more experienced S5 users would be great!

Ta.
ages ago

brianslade20 says:

Hi all, Im hoping to get some advice on auto focus.

Im using (and loving) a Nikkor 12-24 using aperture priority, shooting mostly people, un-posed and without flash.
My problem is that if the subject is off to either the left or right when the lens is wide open then they are out of focus. The system is good at keeping the centre sharp but I need to know if I can set up the auto focus system better for my kind of pictures. If I need to lock focus each time and re frame then the moment could be lost. I see mention of manual focus screens. Are they worth a look?
(Now i know some will raise their eyebrows and mumble about depth of field but I'm keeping an eye on this all the time. I found it easier when reading the aperture ring of the old F lenses)
Any advice will be welcome.
ages ago

Goosemilk the Photographer says:

brianslade20 - are you moving the focus points when your subject is not in the center? Or you can focus lock them in with them in the center then move the camera to off center them.

I'm alway moving my focus points, sometimes I end up use the grouping feature.

dillusional_confusion - your flow will really come with use. Each of us have a different flow. My flow mainly depends on how I feel about the photo. There are days when iPhoto is my main tool, then there are days when Lightroom is my main tool. Then when I really get into I go with a combo Lightroom/Nikon Capture NX/PS CS3.

It all comes down to what you want to do with the photo and if the software has that feature.
ages ago

dillusional_confusion says:

Cheers Nakia, I'll keep playing around to find what works for me.

I'm also wondering about the best camera settings to get the most effective increase in DR and also if anyone has any issues with colour fringing (on higher contrast edges) when using highlight recovery in PS/LR? I can't seem to get it under control yet.

Edit: I can get rid of the colour fringe by using CA adjustments - but there are still some nasty effects... check out this link, as an example with the fringing:

www.flickr.com/photos/dillusional_confusion//

and this one with corrections made by fiddling with CA sliders in Lightroom:

www.flickr.com/photos/dillusional_confusion//
Originally posted ages ago.
dillusional_confusion edited this topic ages ago.

brianslade20 says:

Thanks for the reply Nakia.

I think from reading (and cursing) the instructions that Dynamic-area AF is the way to go. I'll also try to focus, lock focus, then reframe. Im sure once im more at home with this great camera I'll be on track!

Thanks again.

Bazza
ages ago

Michael_H says:

Hello everyone,

I've just bought an S5, and would appreciate some help with the following:

1. Raw processing workflow

It is my understanding that the camera would allow me to recover 2-3 stops overexposure (Thom Hogan even recommends to overexpose). Which converter would you use to work with R pixel information?

I've got both HS-V3 and Lightroom 2; as far as I could see the the Fuji converter provides a bit better color when converting. But I read that it would allow only one stop overexposure correction. Lightroom is on another hand the main workflow tool I use but I wouldn't like to loose quality.

I am interested to hear what is your workflow, for instance, for a wedding assignment? (A lot of images, top quality is a must).

2. White balance.

It seems to me that Auto WB is precise outdoors, what is your impression for indoors? Mixed lighting? While I am always trying to use gray cards/expodisc it does not always work on assignments. How do you handle WB?

3. Speed.

I am using 133x cards with my other Nikon bodies without any problems, but S5 is fairly slow. I wonder if 266x or faster card would provide any speed benefit. Also it looks like smaller card (FAT16 formatted) are a bit faster than larger cards (FAT32 formatted). Is it so in your experience?

Any advice is appreciated.
Originally posted ages ago.
Michael_H edited this topic ages ago.

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mighty cat [deleted] says:

1) I prefer the output from LR2 compared to HS-V3, but that's just a personal thing. Besides, LR is FAR nicer to work with than HSV3, especially with the new implementation of local adjustments with the brush and gradient tools!

2) The S5's WB is almost infallible for me, even under mixed incandescent lighting, which is a nice change from all the other DLSRs I've ever used, even my D300 isn't as good! If anything does go awry though, i just alter it in LR

3) The S5 is not a properly quick camera, it's plenty fast for me, but when using the extended dynamic range in RAW it does slow down a bit, so fast cards are definitely a bonus, try a 4gb UDMA compact flash and see how much faster it really is before you spend anything on a new card...
Originally posted ages ago.
mighty cat edited this topic ages ago.

mel's_photos says:

I was trying to find out on the Fuji website how much the super warranty would be for the S5.It appears to have every camera on there but the S5.I tried to but got bored after 10 minutes.If anyone has taken one out,please let me know.
ages ago

Bill - PA says:

First of all,yes, I did a search and didn't find what I'm looking for.

Second - I'm a long time Fuji user S1, S2, S3, and now within the past couple of days an S5. (S3 is in for repairs - maybe, if I can find a place less expensive than Fuji - I have a separate thread about that).

Anyway - here's the situation: I do a lot of volunteer work for a local children's chorus - concerts, practices, and a 'photo board' which are simple portrait pictures. Although I normally shoot RAW, for these over the past few years I shot JPG with good results (especially from S3). I've had the S5 for only a couple of days, and haven't had much time to 'play' with it, and probably won't have much opportunity to experiment prior to a shoot I have with the chorus in a couple of weeks. (It's mixed lighting - window, high ceiling florescent - against a brick wall - I adjust/crop in Photoshop). On the S3 I used F1.

So, my question is, what would you recommend the S5 camera settings to be for this? I'll probably just have an SB800 on camera, or perhaps on a bracket, with a diffuser - it's not worth setting up my other lighting for this. I usually take 3 shots of each person (ages range from 8 to 18, and I don't use a tripod) - I'm interested in your recommendation on camera settings in order to minimize my photoshop time.

Thanks for your input.
Bill
ages ago

concerned mine [deleted] says:

If you are using the flash as the main or only light source, 1b is a nice contrasty, colourful jpeg mode. Set the white balance to sun.
And post some shots in your profile or you look like one of those people who posts no shots.
ages ago

Bill - PA says:

fo2me - Thanks for the response. Of course I'll post some shots, once I get a few with the S5 other than test shots of the neighbor's house :) I have plenty of S3 and S2 shots, but onlyl test shots with the S5 so far.
Thanks again, and I look forward to being an active participant here.
Regards,
Bill
ages ago

Tom Green UK says:

Night exposures.
First let me confess to not having looked this up in the manual yet, but does anyone know why...
Framing a shot of the night sky, setting to Manual, aperture F11 Exposure to 1 second, (very underexposed)
then the focus sets but shutter does not release... ?
Anyone any ideas ?
ages ago

kgreggbruce says:

are you using a cable release? if you are pressing the button, you might be moving the camera just a bit. Once you have your focus set, switch to manual focus... see if it helps...
ages ago

itchy day [deleted] says:

I assume you do not have AF lock.

Have you switched to manual focus too?
ages ago

concerned mine [deleted] says:

Hey, everyone loves shots of the neighbours house. It's what Flickr was made for.

I'll have to check to see is there a group.
ages ago

kityatyi says:

I have ordered my S5 Pro and will get it by the 2nd of October! Tiny thing, but I dare to ask, does the paint on the buttons and body fade quickly? I hope not. I used to have an Olympus E-1, where the text (paint) on buttons were like carved "under" the surface, basically there was no chance to fade. How is it with the S5? I hope the paint won't fade after 6-12 months, as it has faded on my compact camera, where the buttons are already plain black, and I can hardly remember which button is for what, in lack of text/label...
Originally posted ages ago.
kityatyi edited this topic ages ago.

mel's_photos says:

Hi Kityatyi,

I've just ordered the S5 aswell,i can't wait for it to arrive.I also shoot with a Nikon D200 which shares the same body as the s5.I've owned it for just under two years and used it alot and it still looks new.
ages ago

Itinerant says:

kityati : No, the S5 body holds up very well like the D200, the only signs of wear you'll encounter are paint chips on the rounded edges of the metal body, and grip glue separating. And this would be after HEAVY abuse. Otherwise, it'll look like new.

No wearing out of the button's lettering in my case, and I use mine daily.
ages ago

elizbeans says:

I just replaced my D70 with an S5 Pro and I have what's probably a silly question.

It seems like my shutter is really slow to release. Even when I'm using a fast shutter speed and low f-stop it feels like it takes too long. I wonder if I have some setting wrong or this is just something with the S5? I admit that I haven't fully read the manual or adjusted many sets yet - too anxious for some quick play!
ages ago

elizbeans says:

ah, nevermind! i figured it out. i went back and re-set the set up. exposure delay mode was set to "on" - turned it off and we're good. gosh, it wouldn't seem like that .4 sec makes a difference, but it does!
ages ago

clean language [deleted] says:

I got my S5 Pro on Monday and love it. I'm wondering if there is a Fuji dslr community with message boards like nikoncafe.com for instance.
ages ago

Greg Reyes says:

Is anyone using a pair of Pocket Wizzard II's to remotely fire the camera?
ages ago

..Tom says:

Hello, can anyone tell me if importing raw files as Adobe DNG on import into Lightroom will reduce the quality of the final image. I have read that to do this will allow you to reduce the file size of the raw image original.
Thanks Tom
ages ago

Itinerant says:

architecture photo : It wont reduce the quality at all and will substantially reduce file sizes.
ages ago

mel's_photos says:

I have just taken delivery of my S5 and have kept the D200 for sport etc.I know i can't use the Nikon batteries in the Fuji,as Fuji has put a chip in their battery.Seems strange that even with the battery pack the camera can still pick it up.Anyway my question is this,which third party batteries will be ok with the fuji,i take it they have somehow got around the chip in the battery problem.I usually use picstop,but if anyone has better ideas or prices i'd love to hear.
ages ago

concerned mine [deleted] says:

I've tried some (4) E-Bay generic replacements, two different makers. All useless. The Fuji originals last longer, in storage or in use.
ages ago

bunya_on says:

Hi all , Ive just purchased a Fuji S5 Pro, my first move into digital , after many years of Nikon 35mm SLR use. After doing my research , buying the S5 was a bit of a no brainer. I have about 10 nikon mount lenses from my film cameras, trouble is, considering the crop factor, none of them are no longer wide enough. I am now looking at purchasing a new DX zoom lens, something like tamron 17-50 2.8 or Sigma 17-70 2.8-4.5 or maybe even Sigma 10-20. Any suggestions or recommendations?
ages ago

willem van gent says:

nikkor 12-24mm 4.0 is great!
ages ago

brianslade20 says:

I agree with wvangent. Nikkor 12-24 f4. Versitile, fast enough and easy to handle. My one is a little soft around the edges at 12 but my people pictures are sharp as a pin. I had a little difficulty with setting up the focus points at first but advice on this forum soon got me on track.
ages ago

Itinerant says:

Tamron 18-50 f/2.8 is an excellent all-round lens, and almost as good as the Nikon 17-55 (which is what I have) and for fast prime use, the Sigma 30mm f/1.4. The Tamron 70-200 f/2.8 would round things out without totally breaking the bank.
ages ago

JJ.Hawk says:

I have recently purchased anS5.......just sorry i waited so long...had a few nikon lenses..from an older 35mm...was recommended the Sigma 10-20..tried it..liked it..and have had no problems...all in all...a good lens i think.

Now....if someone could recommend a good macro.......
Originally posted ages ago.
JJ.Hawk edited this topic ages ago.

mel's_photos says:

JJ.hawk.

I have the sigma 105mm ex dg and it's a wonderful lense.Check out my flowers,all of these are handheld.
ages ago

mighty cat [deleted] says:

Nikkor 55mm f/3.5 micro Ai-S AWESOME macro lens for about a third of the cost of a modern equivalent, many of which just aren't quite as sharp....
ages ago

Itinerant says:

Or the 60mm Micro-Nikkor f/2.8. Probably the sharpest of the current Nikkors - great for portraits as well as Macros. The only complaint with it, it requires a bit of skill to use and can be TOO sharp for people pics.
ages ago

mel's_photos says:

I forgot to mention my recent purchase,a Nikon 55mm 2.8 ais.I got it from ebay for £55.00 and it's mint.
ages ago

empty thing [deleted] says:

Hi there.

I've just got an S5, but have been shooting film and digital for quite some time. My previous digital cameras have been a Leica V-Lux 1 and a Pentax K10D. I've also shot Pentax and Nikon 35mm, Mamiya medium format, and large format 4x5. So I am not at all new to photography.

What I've noticed with the S5, using both of my two lenses, is a huge amount of flair when shooting outdoors. My lenses are a Tamron AF 28-105mm 2.8, and a Nikon AF 80-200mm 2.8 MK I. Both great, but older, full-frame lenses.

So, is this somehow a lens problem, a digital problem, or a problem with what I'm doing? I use the supplied lens hoods and don't shoot into the sun, but I still end up with a soft 'glowing' look a lot of the time. I've upgreaded to firmware 1.11, but that didn't seem to change anything. Indoors, these lenses are very sharp, so I know it's not a focusing issue.

Any help would be GREATLY appreciated, because not being able to shoot outdoors is a major caviate I simply can't deal with.

Thanks.
ages ago

kgreggbruce says:

Im sure your s5 can shoot outdoors. Flare comes from using the lens, so ie- its user error.(meaning that if a particular lens is prone to flare, work with/around it) Without a sample and exif, and more details, it will be hard to decipher whats going on.

There are just too many factors to say 'my camera and lenses wont let me shoot outdoors' - I say again that Im sure your Fuji can shoot outdoors.

I have a black card I use in addition to the lens hoods on my lenses because sometimes its not enough. I handhold it if mobile, tape it on if stationary to light source.
Originally posted ages ago.
kgreggbruce edited this topic ages ago.

channyuk (using Albums) says:

Sorry, want some advice from current s5 users. The price for the S5 in the UK is now at a ridiculously low level, approx. £420. I have a Nikon D40, always shoot in RAW and love B&W photography, especially landscapes. I love the idea of having film-like dynamic range, but wondered how significantly better the S5's dynamic range capabilities are compared to say a Nikon D90 with active D lighting when shooting in RAW with post processing. I'm unlikely to print much bigger than A4 and don't do a huge amount of image cropping.

So, should I grab the S5 while I can, wait until the D90 comes down in price or go back to film to get better resolution and dynamic range in one go?

Any opinions would be gratefully received.
ages ago

*Focus says:

It's different camera in terms of image producing, I for one don't shoot RAW anymore with Fuji. :-)
ages ago

Itinerant says:

Except for client shoots (where money is on the line) and weird lighting conditions, if youve got the exposure dialled in - shooting RAW is a waste of time and storage with the s5.
ages ago

lordhoth says:

Hello. Just got my Fuji S5 pro. I've noticed that when I'am viewing my pics the screen hangs. I have to turn off the camera and restart it again so that I may continue to view my pics. Same with zooming in and out of the picture. It doesn't happen often but it does happen.

I thought that it may be a defect with the multi selector but a friend of mine suggested that maybe the cf card that I'am using is at fault. That it coudn't keep up with the buffer of the S5 and should get a better brand of cf like the sandisk extreme III.

Any comments on this particular dilemna of mine is most welcome.

Thank you.
ages ago

akab80 says:

Hi Guys!
I was an enthusiastic owner of an S2, but today I bought the S5 and I'm very very glad...
I'm studying the menu and the setup that are more complex in this new camera and I've got some question to ask.
1. The "Dynamic Range" function affect the jpeg files only or both? (shooting Raw+Jpeg)
2. What does the "Pixel registration" option means?
3. Which difference there is between the 2 options (STD and ORG) in the noise reduction issue?

Thanks!
ages ago

lordhoth says:

Hello Aka. I'll try to answer some of your questions...Somewhat of a newbie to with the S5...The dynamic rang function could be used with raw and jpeg but only in standard mode. If you use the film simulation you woudn't be able to ise the dr function.

with regards to the noise reduction fuji claims that you should use standard with evrything that you shoot but when it comes to night scenes you should use the org instead. I think the org acts as an off button. They recommend it for low light scenes specially when you include ma large portion of the sky in your photo..

I haven't bothered with the pixel registration option yet...
ages ago

rightful mailbox [deleted] says:

Why does my S5 take such good pictures? It's strange but it happens all the time. If this continues...
ages ago

lordhoth says:

My friend and I use to joke that Fuji places a small alien inside their cameras and they are the ones manipulating the image quality so that your photos would come out fantastic...

Hehehehe for me Type_R it's a mystery how the Fuji S5 makes my photos look soooo goooood...
ages ago

Weeping-Willow Photography says:

Hi all, over the last couple of years I've got back into photography after a break of over 10 years. I'm soon to upgrade from my Fuji S and was going to get the Nikon D200 as I have several old (nikon f mount) manual lenses and wanted to use them, whilst in my local camera shop I was advised to get the S5 pro. I read a few reviews and articles and it does sound an awesome camera. And I have a fuji at present and I have a fuji compact, and I really do rate Fuji cameras.

I know the D200 has the option of telling the camera the max aperture and focal length of the manual lens that you're using, and the camera then meters and focuses correctly, is the also the case with the S5?

Basically is it simple enough to use the old lenses with the S5 and are the results good. Or is it better in the long run to forget I have the old lenses and buy a new camera and a bunch of new lenses.

I'll be grateful for any advice as I'm horrendous at decision making, lol.

Thanks in advance

Siobhan.
ages ago

mel's_photos says:

Hi Weeping-Willow.

I have both the D200 and S5,they are two very different beasts.They both work with older lenses really well.Don't get rid of your old lenses,i have just bought a Nikon 85mm 1.4 ais from ebay for £150,new one would be around £700.You won't regret buying the S5 at all,and i would say the older lenses are better in many ways.
ages ago

Weeping-Willow Photography says:

Thanks Mel, the bloke in the camera shop told me they were practically the same camera, obviously not the case. And as I've become quite fond of Fuji products I was tempted to the S5.

Is it simple enough using the old lenses, I'm not that technically minded and I'm learning all over again, and I have been warned that I'll have metering and focusing problems using old lenses with the S5, but that the D200 automatically adjusts once it knows what lens you're using.

Sorry for being a bit dense but I've never had a DSLR before, and my old Nikon FE seemed quite simple in comparison, lol.
Originally posted ages ago.
Weeping-Willow Photography edited this topic ages ago.

Itinerant says:

The D200 and the s5 both allow you to use older AI and AI-S lenses. Neither automatically adjusts to those lenses, you have to enter the values of the lenses. BUt once you do, then they will meter through the lenses. In that respect, both cameras do the same thing.
ages ago

Weeping-Willow Photography says:

Brilliant thanks, that's what I needed to know, you've really helped me make my mind up.
ages ago

DWImages-Daniela White says:

Can you tell me if any of these lenses are any good, please be honest and if they are all just rubish glass tell me and I will gradually replace them.

Between my OH and I we have :
Nikon 70-300 AF 4.5
Nikon 18-35 3.5-4.5D
60,mm Micro Nikkor
Sigma DG 28-300
Fujiyama Digital Wide MC AF converter W/Macro 0.5 x 72mm
ages ago

concerned mine [deleted] says:

The 60mm micro Nikkor is good.

The rest are rubbish, I own one of them, so it can't be good.

From what I see, working professionals who shoot weddings buy two lenses.

The 17-55 2.8 Nikon
The 70-200 2.8 Nikon.

And maybe an 85mm 1.4 for portraits, or a fisheye for fun shots.

Then they stop buying lenses, unless one of those breaks.
ages ago

concerned mine [deleted] says:

On the other hand, lens fetishists are the heart of Flickr.
If, like most people, you are not prepared to fork out a dollars each for those two zooms, there are lots of alternatives that are nearly as good.
ages ago

Itinerant says:

DWImages: Two lens resources I use to help me decide on what lenses to look for is Bjorn Roslett's Lens Evaluations

www.naturfotograf.com/lens_surv.html

where he surveys a wide range of Nikon lenses and ranks them on a 1-5 scale on different bodies. Also the Nikonians lens and compatibility chart:

www.nikonians.org/html/resources/nikon_articles/other/com...

so that you can find out if the lens you came across at an estate sale will work with the s5.
ages ago

DWImages-Daniela White says:

Thank you for all the advice.
ages ago

DWImages-Daniela White says:

One more question please does the S5 comre with a free raw converter software?
ages ago

Cadillac Joe says:

Thinking about buying an S5. Does anybody use Apple Aperture when shooting RAW? Presently I'm using Aperture with my D80. Any comments? When shooting RAW, will I have access to film modes?
ages ago

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